Paris Fashion Week gave me everything I was looking for including drama, couture like designs, celebration of art, and it never seizes to amaze me how designers reinterpret the classics over and over again. Céline, Givenchy, and Alexander McQueen gave me powerful tribal women. Chanel was as current as ever with its art collection. Considering how old Lagerfeld is, I wish him many, many more years of healthy life because there is no one like him. Stella McCartney gave me plenty of basics, while Saint Laurent showed the most perfect jumpsuit I have ever seen. I cannot help but fall in love with Heidi Slimane’s Saint Laurent girl, she is too cool; and who doesn’t want to be her? The departure of Marc Jacobs from Luis Vuitton did not surprise me (after all there has been whispers for a while) but his last collection did, it had everything I used to love about Marc Jacobs: the glitter, the showgirl, the drama, the darkness. And I loved that at the end he said, ” I design all my collections as if it were my last.” That sense of being in the present and daring to not look too far ahead, is empowering. Lets take a closer look.
The tribe of Céline didn’t intrigue me as much:
Givenchy gave me tribal woman that is much more relevant to me:
Alexander McQueen was also tribal, but in a much more sophisticated way. I love what Sarah Burton is doing, but I do miss the genius and the newness of what Alexander used to create. His every collection was an exercise in how far he could push himself with yet another theme, and he always came out victorious.
Stella McCartney knows what women want and no need to change anything. I love her suits, I love her blazers, I just love her easiness and calmness. As a woman, as well as a designer she is confident and it shows.
I can talk for a long time about Saint Laurent, Heidi Slimane, and why some people hate it and some love it; but I will only say that if we look back at what Yves was capturing with his designs we will understand that it was exactly what Heidi is doing right now. They are both all about designing for young, daring, modern girls. Heidi’s passion for music, photography, art, precision – it’s all in the clothes. From afar it looks like a simple blazer, a simple dress, a simple skirt but all it takes is to look a little closer to be able to appreciate his aesthetic. He seduces me every time, because if there is one thing I love, that is understated elegance and attention to detail.
Chanel is the ultimate indulgence, the house codes are now synonymous with elegance, wealth, and class. Chanel is a privately owned company by two guys that most people probably have never even heard of before (Alain and Gerard Wertheimer, rings a bell anyone?), with its own materials and textiles production, their own couture house where they dictate their own rules and remain at the forefront of all the design houses. I’m guessing just as Mrs.Coco herself would have wanted.
Louis Vuitton was a spectacular collection, Marc Jacobs gave us dark drama, and those head peaces looked great on every single model. They were like birds of a dark paradise.
all photos from style.com